Ornamental seam sewing machine



March 16, 1937. s. zoNls ORNAMENTAL SEAM SEWING MACHINE Filed Nov. l2, 1955 3 Sheets-Shet l March 16, 1937. s. zoNls ORNAMENTAL SEAM SEWING MACHINE 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed Nov. 12, 1935 Sydney Zons Mach 16, 1937. s. ZONIS Y ORNAMENTAL SEAM SEWING MACHINE Filed NOV. 12, 1935 '3 Sheets-Sheet 3 -M .....Iwm Hmz, www.

@Hmmm/1 Patented Mar. 16, 1937 UNITED STATES AT E T FFICE Singer Manufacturing Company,

Elizabeth,

N. J., a corporation of New Jersey Application November 12, 1935, Serial No. 49,331

7 Claims.

This invention relates to improvements in sewing machines and has for its primary object to provide a sewing machine adapted to make openwork seams closely-simulating a hemstitch seam and having a work-production capacity which is considerably greater than that of hemstitching machines.

` With the above and other more specific objects in view, as will hereinafter appear, the invention consists in the devices, combinations and arrangements of parts hereinafter described in connection with the accompanying drawings which illustrate an embodiment of the invention ina lock-stitch sewing machine.

In the drawings, Fig. l is a front side elevation, partly in vertical section, of a sewing machine having the improved seam forming -mechanism of the present invention. Fig. 2 represents a horizontal longitudinal section of the bracket- 1 l 20 arm of the machine. Fig. 3 is a bottom plan view of the machine. Fig. '4 is a front end elevation, partly in vertical section, ofthe sewing machine, with the bracket-arm face-plate removed. Fig. 5 is a rear side elevation of a portion of the bracket-arm head of the machine. Fig. 6`is a detail `view of the feed-lift cam and the rock-arm actuated thereby. Fig. 7 is an enlarged view in side elevation of the feed-lift cam. Fig. 8 is an enlarged view in side elevation of the feed-advance cam. Fig. 9 is an enlarged view in side elevation` of the main-piercer actuating cam and of the crank-arm actuated thereby, the piercer rockshaft being shown in section.4 Fig. 10 represents a development of the needle-vibrating cam. Fig.

, 11 illustrates the two-stitch open-work seam produced by the present machine.

Referring to the drawings, the present sewing machine has the usual framework including a `bedor cloth-plate I, from which rises a hollow standard 2 of an overhanging bracket-arm 3 terminating in a head 4. Journaled in suitable bearings provided in the bracket-arm is a horizontally disposed rotary main-shaft 5, carrying at one end a belt-pulley 6 and at its opposite end a crank-disk l. 'Ihe crank-disk l has a crankpin 8 connected by a link 9 to a needle-bar I0 journaled for vertical reciprocation in suitable bearings provided therefor in the head 4.

The `needle-bar I0 carries at its lower end a supporting plate II, pivotally sustaining a pair of needle-carriers I2 and I3, secured upon said plate I I for relative adjustment toward and from each other. The needle-bar carrier I2 is provided with Va thread-carrying needle I4 and also a vertically disposed guide-rod I5, while the needle-carrier I3 is similarly provided with a threadcarrying needle I6 and a vertically disposed guide-rod I1. The needles I@ and i6 are arranged abreast with respect to the direction of feed ofthe work and are adapted to be vibrated toward and from each other to perform, alternately, narrowly and more widely spaced workpenetrating movements.

To this end, the respective guide-rods I5and Il are passed through swivel-pins` I8 and i9 mounted in crank-arms 20 and 2i carried by the front ends of horizontally disposed and substantially parallel rock-shafts 22 and 23, journaled in the bracket-arm head It. At their rearward ends, i. e., at the rearward side of the head li, the respective rock-shafts 22, 23 carry the oppositely directed crank-arms 24 and 25, connected by links 26 and 2l with correspondings arms of bellcrank levers 28 and 29 fulcrumed adjacent to each other upon the bracket-arm head i at the rearward side thereof. The other arms of said bell-crank levers are pivotally connected to the forward ends of horizontally disposed pitmanrods 30 and 3|, of which the opposite ends are adjustably connected to a vibratory arm 32, in a manner more fully disclosed in the U. S. patent to A. H. De Voe, No. 1,940,399, Dec. 19, 1933. The vibratory arm 32 carries a cam-stud 33 entering a peripheral groove 34 provided in the cam 35 secured to a spur-gear 35 for rotation therewith upon a stub-shaft 3l, said stub-shaft 3l being suitably fixed in the bracket-arm 3, below and substantially parallel to the main-shaft 5. The spur-gear 35 is driven by a pinion 3B secured upon the main-shaft 5 to rotate once for two rotations of the main-shaft.

Complemental to the respective needles I4 and I6, in the formation of lock-stitches, are looptakers 39 and 4i) of the vertical-axis rotary hook type having their needle-thread-loop seizing paths of movement below the cloth-plate and at the relatively remote sides of the needles. The loop-takers 39 and 40 may be of any usual or suitable construction and, in the present machine, are each rotated twice for each reciprocation of the Vrespective needle with which it cooperates. The loop-takers 39 and i0 are driven by spiralgear connections with a horizontally disposed rotary actuating shaft 4I journaled beneath the cloth-plate and connected by means of a vertically disposed intermediate shaft i2 and suitable gears with the main-shaft 5.

The work is advanced by Va drop-feed mechanism comprising a feed-dog i3 operating through a suitably slotted throat-plate i4 secured upon the cloth-plate I, said feed-dog being opposed by a presser-foot 45, preferably of the kind commonly employed in hemstitching machines. The feed-dog 43 is carried by a feed-bar 46 pivoted, at one end, to a rocker 4l' carried by a feedadvance rock-shaft 48. At its opposite end, the feed-bar is operatively engaged by a rock-arm 49 of a feed-lift rock-shaft 55, said rock-shafts 48 and 5I) being journaled in suitable bearings provided at the under side of the bed-plate i.

The feed-advance rock-shaft 48 carries a crank-arm 5I pivotally connected to the lower end of a link 52, of which the upper end is adjustably secured to a segment-lever 53 disposed outside of the arm-standard and below the bracketarm. The segment-lever 53 is secured upon a fulcrum-shaft 54 journaled in the bracket-arm standard 2, said segment-lever carrying a rollerstud 55 entering a cam-groove 56 formed in the side face of a feed-advance cam 5l. The cam 5'! is secured for rotation with the spur-gear 35 which, as hereinbefore described, rotates once for two rotations of the main-shaft. By referring to Fig. 8 of the drawings, it will be observed that the cam-groove 56 is so formed as to impart two work-advancing impulses and two return movements to the feed-dog 43 for each complete rotation of the feed-cam 5l. Therefore, as the needles make a complete reciprocation for each rotation of the main-shaft 5, the work is advanced during each of the unison stitch-forming cycles of the needles, the timing being such that the work is advanced while the needles are out of the work.

Clamped upon the feed-lift rock-shaft 50 is a crank-arm 58 connected by a link 59 to a rockarm 50 pivotally mounted upon the fulcrumshaft 54. The rock-arm 50 carries a cam-stud BI entering a feed-lift cam-groove 62 in the side face of the spur-gear 35. By referring to Figs. 6 and 7 of the drawings, it will be observed that the feed-lift cam-groove 62 is so formed as to impart two complete vibrations to the rock-arm for each rotation of the spur-gear 36. Co-nsef quently, the feed-dog 43 is raised into engagement with the work and is again lowered during each of the unison stitch-forming cycles of the needles, the raising and` lowering movements of the feed-dog being, of course, suitably timed to r the work-advancing and return movements of said feed-dog.

A main piercer-and-shaper 63 has endwise reciprocatory movements between the needles I4 and I 6 in a path to enter apertures previously l formed in the work and also entered by said needles during their narrowly spaced descending movements, said main piercer 53 being preferably recessed at opposite sides thereof to receive the needles when narrowly spaced. The main piercer 53 is carried by a piercer-bracket 64 secured upon the lower end of a piercer-bar V65 ljournaled for Vertical reciprocation in the bracket-arm head 4. Carried by the piercer-bar 55 ls a collar E6 to which is pivotally connected a crank-arm 67 at one end of a horizontally disposed rock-shaft 58 journaled in spaced bearing-lugs 69 and 'IB at the rear side of the machine bracket-arm. At its other end, the rock-shaft 58 carries a short crank-arm 'II provided with a follower 'I2 entering a cam-groove 'I3 formed in the side face of a peripherally toothed cam or spur-gear 14. The spur-gear 'I4 is journaled to rotate upon a stub-shaft 'I5 suitably secured in a bracket '15, attached to the frame arm 3 by screws TI. The spur-gear 'I4 is driven by a pinion 'I8 upon the main-shaft 5 to rotate at one half the speed of rotation of said main-shaft.

By referring to Fig. 9 of the drawings, it will be observed that the cam-groove 'I3 is so formed as to impart one complete reciprocation to the piercer-bar 55 for each rotation of the spurgear '14. Consequently, the main piercer 63 performs only one reciprocation for two successive reciprocations of the needles I4 and I6. The timing of the main-piercer operation is such that when the needles are in their narrowly,7 spaced relation, the piercer 53 descends to penetrate the Work before the descending needles reach the work, whereby the needles may enter the aperture as shaped by said piercer. The piercer 53 begins to rise as the needles are completing their descent, said piercer suspending its operation at the beginning of its subsequent descent to remain ineffective, while out of the work, until the needles have completed their subsequent reciprocation in their more widely spaced relation.

Mounted upon the needle-bar plate II, so as to be disposed directly in front of the main-piercer 53, is an auxiliary piercer 1S, the space between said piercers being preferably equal to, although it may be a multiple of, the amplitude of workadvancing movement of the feed-dog 43. Being carried by the needle-bar IU, the auxiliary piercer 1S reciprocates vertically in unison with the needles. The auxiliary piercer 'I9 not only functions to initially form an aperture in the work for subsequent .entrance by the main piercer 63 but, as hereinafter described, also serves to act upon the cross-bars which separate the apertures of the open-work seam, whereby the product has the appearance of a hemstitch seam in which the longitudinal threads have been drawn previous to the hemstitching operation.

In Fig. l0 of the drawings, which illustrates a development of the needle-vibrating cam 35, the cam-groove 34 is substantially straight from W, marking the beginning of the more widely spaced relation of the needles I4 and I6, to W which marks the ending of said more widely spaced relation of the needles. From W the cam acts gradually to move the needles into their narrowly spaced relation in which they remain for an interval before being again spread into their more widely spaced relation.

When the needles are at their upper limit of movement and in their narrowly spaced relation, the feed-dog 43 has substantially completed its work-advancing movement and the work-aperture previously formed by the auxiliary piercer 'I9 is positioned for entrance by the main piercer 63 which, at this time, is also at substantially the upper end of its path of reciprocation. The needle-bar I5 and the piercer-bar 65 begin their descent at substantially the same time, the main piercer 53 preceding the needles in the entrance of the previously formed work-aperture. The auxiliary piercer 'I9 descends with the needles and penetrates the work in front of the main piercer, said auxiliary piercer being preferably shaped to push apart the work-threads, extending longitudinally of the seam line, preferably to an extent substantially equal to the width of the workaperture as shaped by the main piercer 63.

After having entered the work-aperture, the

descending needles are moved apart, under the action of the cam 35, into the more widely spaced relation of the needles reached at substantially the bottom of the needle stroke. The main piercer begins to rise as the needles are completing their downstroke, after which the spread needles rise verticaly and present needle-thread the displaced fabric threads. of the needles in their more widely spaced reloops to the loop-takers 39, 40 for the formation of stitches. The needles continue to rise vertically in their more widely spaced relation, the work being advanced by the feed-dog 43 when the needles leave the Work andwhile they are completing their upstroke. The main piercer 63 reaches its upper limit of movement, out of the Work,4 While` the needles are completing their upstroke, said main piercer 63 thereupon remaining substantially idle during ,the succeeding complete reciprocation of the needles. In said succeeding complete reciprocation, the needles descend and rise vertically in the previously attained more widely spaced relation, until after said needles areagain out of the work, at which time the cam 35 acts to move the needles laterally .into their narrowly spaced relation. Consequently the needles have no lateral movement while in the work during the second reciprocation of the needles. The needle-thread loops are again seized by the loop-takers 39, 4U during thesecond reciprocation of the needles and the work is again advanced by the feed-dog 43 after the needles leave the Work. The auxiliary piercer 19, of course, moves downwardly to penetrate the work while the needles descend the second time above described and it is the work-aperture formed by the auxiliary piercer i9 in the second descent of the needles which is subsequently entered by the main piercer 63. In its work-penetrating movement during the first descent of the needles, the auxiliary piercer 'I9 acts upon the cross-bars of the open-work seam, said auxiliarypiercer functioning to push the fabric-threads, extending parallel to the seam line, toward the opposite ends of the cross-bars. This function of the auxiliary piercer is aided by the spreading movement of the needles from their narrowly spaced relation. By reason of the fact that the needles in their more widely spaced relation have no relative approaching movement while in 'the work, said needles have no tendency to return The non-vibration initially formed by the auxiliary piercer 'I9 and subsequently entered'and shaped by the main piercer 63. Separating said apertures a are cross-bars b, comprising fabric threads extending crosswise ofthe seam, the fabric-threads extending longitudinally of the seam having been spread apart from the middle and toward opposite ends of said cross-bars b by the auxiliary piercer 19. The apertures a are held open by two rows of zigzag stitches S, the successively formed stitches of each row extending divergently from the apertures a to points. c in the fabric A, adjacent to the ends of the cross-bars b. The divergent pull of the stitches serves to hold said apertures open.

It will be understood that seams of different appearances may be formed by substituting main piercers of different shapes and sizes and by changing the feed-advance cam to make alternately long and short stitches. It is also to be understood that the present invention is not limited to lock-stitch machines, as chain-stitch loopers or equivalent devices may be employed for anchoring the needle-threads, instead of the rotary hooks of the present machine.

Having thus set forth the nature of the invention, what I claim herein is:-

1. In a sewing machine, a pair of endwise reciprocatory and laterally vibratory needles, needle-actuating mechanism including means for reciprocating said needles endwise in unison and for vibrating said needles laterally toward and from each other to perform alternate narrowly and more widely spaced work-penetrating movements, means complemental to said needles in the formation of stitches, work-feeding means effective to advance the work for each of the unison stitch-forming cycles of said needles, an endwise reciprocatory work-penetrating piercer having a path of movement to form apertures in the work for entrance by both needles in their narrowly spaced reciprocations, and means for reciprocating said piercer.

2. In a sewing machine, a pair of endwise reciprocatory and laterally vibratory needles, needle-actuating mechanism including means for reciprocating said needles endwise in unison and for vibrating said needles laterally toward and from each other to perform alternate narrowly and more widely spaced work-penetrating movements, means complemental to said needles in the formation of stitches, work-feeding means effective to advance the work for each of the unison Work-penetrating movements of said needles, an endwise. reciprocatory work-penetrating piercer having its operative path of movement between the needles to form apertures in the work for entrance by both needles in their narrowly spaced reciprocations, and means for reciprocating said piercer.

3. In a sewing machine, a pair of endwise reciprocatory and laterally vibratory needles, needle-actuating mechanism including means for reciprocating said needles in unison and for vibrating said needles toward and from each other to perform alternate narrowly and more widely spaced work-penetrating movements, means complementa] to said needles in the formation of stitches, work-feeding means effective to produce an advance of the Work for each of the unison work-penetrating movements of said needles, a reciprocatory work-penetrating piercer, and means for actuating said piercer in timed relation with the needle-reciprocations to form apertures in the work for entrance by both of said needles in their narrowly spaced reciprocations and to suspend effective operation of said piercer in the more widely spaced reciprocations of said needles.

4. In a sewing machine, a pair of endwise reciprocatory and laterally vibratory needles, needle actuating mechanism including means for reciprocating said needles endwise in unison and for vibrating said needles laterally toward and from each other to perform narrowly and more widely spaced work-penetrating movements, means complemental to said needles in the formation of stitches, work-feeding means, a reciprocatory work-penetrating piercer having its effective operation suspended While out of the work in alternate unison-reciprocations of said needles, and means for actuating said piercer.

5. In a sewing machine, a pair of endwise reciprocatory and laterally vibratory needles, needle-actuating mechanism including means for vibrating said needles laterally toward and from each other to perform narrowly and more widely spaced work-penetrating movements, means complemental to said needles in the formation of stitches, work-feeding means, a reciprocatory work-penetrating piercer having its effective operation suspended while out of the work in the widely spaced reciprocations .of said needles, and means for reciprocating said piercer to penetrate the Work in the narrowly spaced reciprocations of said needles.

6. In a sewing machine, a pair of endwise reciprocatory and laterally vibratory needles adapted to perform narrowly and more widely spaced Work-penetrating movements, needleactuating means effective to vibrate said needles laterally while in the Work in the narrowly spaced reciprocations of said needles and ineffective to laterally vibrate said needles while in the work in the more widely spaced reciprocations of the needles, a work-penetrating piercer having a path of movement to form apertures in the work for entrance by said needles in their narrowly spaced reciprocations, means for intermittently reciprocating said piercer, and. workfeeding means.

'7. In a sewing machine, a pair of vertically reciprocatory and laterally vibratory needles adapted to perform unison narrowly and more widely spaced work-penetrating movements, means for actuating said needles, means complemental to said needles in the formation of stitches, Work-feeding means eifective to advance the work for each of the unison stitchforming cycles of said needles, a vertically reciprocatory work-penetrating main-piercer having a path of movement to descend into apertures in the work entered by said needles in their narrowly spaced reciprocations, means for intermittently reciprocating said main-piercer, a work-penetrating auxiliary piercer having a path of movement in front of said main-piercer in spaced relation thereto to form work-apertures alternately entered by said main-piercer, and means for actuating said auxiliary piercer to perform work-penetrating reciprocations in each of the unison stitch-forming cycles of said needles.

SYDNEY ZON'IS. 

